With the resort collections, there is a lot of talk about destinations. But here’s one that hasn’t been mentioned, at least not out loud: The seventies. It’s a place that every Gucci collection seems to travel through, in one direction or another, collecting sensuality and stardust along the way. But this season, it seems to be a point that’s on many designers’ maps, and here are a few of the spots where they’re making stops along the way:
One: Fuller pants and a long silhouette. Some labels have gone the flared route, some voluminous. Gucci’sFrida Giannini showed languid pants that pooled at the floor, the kind that look tailor-made for a leggy beauty like Jerry Hall or, that with a high-enough shoe, could make you feel like Jerry Hall. Some were worn with monochromatic drapey tanks and jackets in a matching slinky, metallic fabric, while others were connected as part of the increasingly ever-present jumpsuit. (Men don’t get them, but designers say women are buying them in a big way.)
Two: A relaxed sportiness. This isn’t a look that’s athletic like when designers riff on the nineties or become inspired by the Olympics. Rather, this is a sort of après-athletic look. Take Gucci’s satin tracksuit or perforated suede warm-up jacket. Or even the iridescent, laminated-leather T-shirt dress for that matter. It’s a sporty feel without having to break a sweat.
And, finally, three: Shoes. Let the other houses do their takes on the clunkier styles of the seventies, namely chunky, wooden-sole clogs and flat, tread-sole sandals. Gucci will always take the path most glamorous, which in this case is laid with platform, ankle-strap sandals, either made of printed scarves that wrap around the leg or vivid leather with a horse-bit embellishment.